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Out of Gamut: A Two-Pass Approach to Sharpening in Photoshop
Bruce Fraser's two-pass method of sharpening images helps discerning Photoshop users get it right.
Written by Bruce Fraser on March 13, 2001
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Applying the Edge Mask
Now that the mask is completed, I load it into the image using Load Selection from the Select menu. (Note that this works with both 8-bit-per-channel and 16-bit-per-channel images, which means you can use all of Photoshop's tools to make selections in high-bit images. All too many people think that if you're working on a high-bit image, your selection options are limited to the marquee and the lasso. If that were the case, I wouldn't use high-bit images nearly as often as I do.)
With the selection loaded -- I always hide the "marching ants" by pressing Command-H (Mac) or Control-H (Windows) so that I can really see what's happening in the image -- I choose Unsharp Mask from the Sharpen submenu on the Filter menu. Since the filter is constrained by the mask, it's somewhat more forgiving in terms of the settings than it is when applied globally, but I always err on the side of caution: Remember, the goal is only to restore sharpness that was lost in the digitization process. In this case, I used a Radius of 0.4 pixels, an Amount of 140%, and Threshold set to zero to produce the result shown in Figure 8b. The original image is seen in Figure 8a, and a globally-sharpened version using the same settings is seen in Figure 8c.

Figure 8a: Unsharpened

Figure 8b: Sharpened as described above, using an edge mask and Unsharp Mask

Figure 8c: Original image after global sharpening, using the same Unsharp Mask settings used for Figure 8b.
The differences between the globally-sharpened version and the selectively-sharpened version are quite subtle at this point: If you look in the deep shadow areas, you can see slightly more noise in the globally-sharpened version. The real payoff comes when you sharpen the image for output.
Second Pass
After you've applied your selective sharpening, sharpen the entire image to get the best results with your given output device. For guidance on how you might best manage this, refer to my previous Out of Gamut column, "(Almost) Everything You Wanted to Know about Sharpening in Photoshop but Were Afraid to Ask."
The figures below show the image sharpened for output to an inkjet printer. Figure 9a shows the selectively-sharpened version after output sharpening: It appears slightly over sharpened on screen, but it's free of objectionable noise and grain and will make a good print. Figure 9b shows the globally-sharpened version after sharpening for output. Clouds of film grain seem to have exploded into existence, notably in the dark cloud at upper left, but also in the walls of the building. Most inkjet printers will use black ink to render the noisy parts, making them even more obvious, so this version will not yield a satisfying print.

Figure 9a: The optimum result, achieved by sharpening edge masking and then sharpening for output.

Figure 9b: A more typical (and less satisfying) results, achieved by using global sharpening and then sharpening for output.
It's true that this pre-sharpening technique involves a fair bit of work. But most of it can be automated: The only steps that require user intervention are making the grayscale rendition to get the best contrast, blurring the edge mask with Gaussian Blur, and making the Levels adjustment to the mask. If you're making multiple versions of an image for different outputs, a pre-sharpened master file is a good place to start: It lets you optimize your sharpening for the particular print process without worrying about image-content issues, because you've already addressed these. I process a lot of images, and I find that careful pre-sharpening saves time in the long run.
Reader Query
I'll conclude by answering a reader query posted in the VoxBox area of my previous column on sharpening. On Friday, January 26, 2001, Don Cooper wrote: "Would Bruce or anyone else please tell me why fractional radius values are used, since there is no smaller unit than the pixel, and we are told to work at output resolution?"
Filters such as Unsharp Mask, High Pass, and Guassian Blur use a mathematical method called a convolution kernel. This is typically a 3-by-3 or 5-by-5 matrix of numbers that represent a group of pixels. The pixel on which the filter is currently operating is always at the center of the matrix, so a 3-by-3 kernel works on the surrounding eight pixels, while a 5-by-5 kernel works on the surrounding 24 pixels.
The kernel changes the current pixel's value based on the values of all the pixels in the matrix. The Radius setting in filters like Unsharp Mask and Guassian Blur adjusts the relative weight given to the surrounding pixels: A smaller radius gives more weight to the current pixel, while larger radii give progressively more weight to the surrounding pixels. Photoshop doesn't carry out any operations on 0.4 of a pixel -- the pixel is indeed the fundamental particle in digital imaging -- it just uses the sub-pixel values to decide how much weight to give to the surrounding pixels.
Read more by Bruce Fraser.
Editor's Note: Click here for a step-by-step quick guide to Bruce Fraser's two-pass sharpening in Photoshop.











Small clarification
Nice article indeed.
Till recently I struggled trying to work out the best archival sharpening approach, but this technique opens my eyes.
I'm quite novice into Photoshop, so perhaps this is the reason of my confusion.
At the last step of first sharpning curve out of 2, you are applying the cretaed Edge mask to the image. However when I try to do that, there is no Load Selection available (on the original copy of the image) until I do Save Selection (choosing All option) in the Copy image containing the B/W mask)
Is that correct procedure ?
This step is missing in your instructions, probably due to the fact that is may seem obvious for more experienced users then me.
Thank in advance,
Alex Z
A Brilliant Tip!
Nice work, Brian! Until now, I was a practitioner of the blanket Unsharp Mask technique.
A Brilliant Tip!
Correction. "Nice work, Bruce!" Sorry, Bruce.
Great Article, suggestion
Thanks for the clear explanation!
In addition to Lee's suggestion about displaying results, another helpful graphic would show blown up details of the results of the different methods.
(Are we working you too hard?)
Thanks! -Alan
Good instructional information for the intermediate Photoshop us
Thanks to the author and Creative Pro. It is articles like this, that persuaded me some months ago to make Creative Pro my browser home page.
Look forward to your articles
I have learned much from reading your articles.
Your articles on sharpening are actually the best I have seen and now have used. I cannot wait until the next one!
Author use of wording is offensive
The author's choice of words is offensive to me - "Psorasis" is a uncontrollable skin disease- and has nothing to do with the picture quality he is trying to explain.
I am a Psorasis sufferer and hate the negative attitude people have towards it!!!
Choose your words more wisely as to not offend!
Very Helpful
Thanks for the great series on sharpening. I too used unsharpen for the entire image. It was always difficult to sharpen what needed it without magnifying noise.
Thankyou Bruce for this sort of insightful writing.
Bruce has basically given me a 'Shoe in' for using photoshop. It is thanks to Real World Photoshop that I have any hope of working in photoshop to achieve the 'fine print' maturity digitally that previously was for me the exclusive realm of the traditional darkroom. Many thanks....!
Good article, but JPEG is a poor choice for samples
Thanks for the very useful tips. However, I want to point out a problem with the way the sample images are published here -- you've used the JPEG format, which is lossy, even when used with a high quality setting. In several cases, the artifacts get in the way of seeing some of the subtle differences that you discuss. Some readers may not even realize the origin of the artifacts, and may misunderstand your points.
I would like to suggest that you use the PNG (portable network graphics) format, which supports full 24-bit color (unlike GIF, another poor choice for high fidelity in photos) and lossless compression (usually not as slim as JPEG, but reasonable, and leaves image unaltered). I believe that all modern versions of browsers include built-in support for PNG.
Thanks for the articles, and for entertaining my humble suggestion,
--Lee