Out of Gamut: Calibrating Camera Raw in Photoshop CS

Pro photographers are digging into Photoshop CS, which includes powerful features for processing raw image data from digital cameras, thanks to its Camera Raw plug-in. Now Bruce Fraser digs deeper to devise a way to customize Camera Raw's color for digital cameras.
Written by Bruce Fraser on May 18, 2004

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Setting Up for Calibration
With the converted RGB Color Checker reference image open in Photoshop, open your raw capture containing the Color Checker you shot, and arrange the windows on screen so that you can see the reference image while you work in Camera Raw, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Arrange the windows containing the two Color Checkers so that you can see the reference image (top) as you work with the calibration image (bottom).

To make the Calibrate tab available, you first have to click Camera Raw's Advanced button. This makes two new adjustment tabs, Lens and Calibrate, appear, as shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3: Click the Advanced button to make the Calibrate tab appear.

Before working in the Calibrate tab, you'll need to use the controls in the Adjust tab to make the overall contrast and saturation of your capture match the reference image. I do this using Camera Raw's RGB Readout as a guide, making adjustments that try to match the tonal values of the gray patches in the bottom row of the Color Checker I photographed to those of the reference image.

Figure 4 shows the controls in the Adjust tab and the RGB Readout, which indicates the RGB values under the cursor, just like Photoshop's Info palette. The controls fall into three groups: the Temperature and Tint sliders comprise the White Balance controls; the Exposure, Shadows, Brightness, and Contrast sliders are the tonal controls; the remaining slider, Saturation, controls the saturation.

Figure 4: The Adjust tab and the RGB Readout.

The Tonal Controls
A quick explanation of Camera Raw's tonal controls is probably helpful. Taken together, the Exposure, Shadows, Brightness, and Contrast sliders define a five-point curve, as follows:

  • The Exposure slider sets the white clipping point.
  • The Shadows slider sets the black clipping point.
  • The Brightness slider is a midtone adjustment, like the gray input slider in Photoshop's Levels -- it adjusts the midtones without affecting the black and white points set by Shadows and Exposure.
  • The Contrast slider applies an S-curve centered on the midpoint set by Brightness. At positive settings, it darkens values below the midpoint set by Brightness and lightens those above, without affecting the black and white clipping points. At negative settings, it lightens values below the midpoint set by Brightness, and darkens those above, again without affecting the black and white points.

    Setting the Contrast
    Taken together, these controls let you shape the overall contrast quite precisely. A couple of handy shortcuts let you keep the cursor on the image to read the RGB values while you adjust the controls. The Tab key selects the next field. The up and down arrows increase and decrease the values in the selected field by 1, while adding Shift changes the increment to 10. Here's my recommended step-by-step procedure:

    1. Start by looking at the values in the white patch. Use the Exposure slider to match the values in your capture to those in the reference image.
    2. Next, look at the two mid-gray patches (Row 4 Column 3 and Row 4 Column 4, respectively), and use the Brightness slider to adjust the values in your capture to match those in the reference image. If the patches are very far from neutral, take the middle of the three values as the aim point.
    3. At this stage, the contrast should be in the ballpark, but the color balance may be wildly off. Set the white balance by clicking Camera Raw's White Balance tool in the second-to-lightest gray patch. This may change the tonal values in the mid-gray patches, so go back and readjust the brightness slider if necessary. Figure 5 shows Camera Raw's tool palette with the White Balance tool selected.

      Figure 5: The White Balance tool in Camera Raw's tool palette.

    4. Check the values in the second-lightest (Row 4 Column 2) and second-darkest (Row 4 Column 5) gray patches. If the light gray patch is too light and the dark gray patch is too dark compared to the reference image, increase the value of the Contrast slider.
    5. If necessary, fine-tune the values in the black patch (Row 4 Column 6) with the Shadows slider.

    By this point, you'll probably have noticed that everything you do affects everything else. You may have to go through two or three iterations of these edits to get the best results. You probably won't be able to get as much tonal separation between the white and light gray patches as in the reference image. Don't worry -- it's OK if the white patch winds up being a little darker than in the reference. You should, however, be able to get within 5 levels or so on the remaining gray patches.

    Before proceeding to the Calibrate tab, you need to make one more edit in the Adjust tab. Look at the values in the red (Row 3 Column 3), green (Row 3 Column 2), and blue (Row 3 Column1) patches, and note the red value for the red patch, the green value for the green patch, and the blue value for the blue patch. If your camera is at all typical, you'll find that the red value for the red patch is much higher than that of the reference image while the blue value for the blue patch is much lower. Don't worry. Concentrate on the green patch, and use the Saturation slider to make the green value for the green patch match that of the reference image. The result should look something like Figure 6 in terms of overall contrast, but the hues may be different.

    Figure 6: The Adjust tab edits completed (top) and the settings used (bottom).

  • 1

    Now I know

    Just made some test shots in RAW mode 2 days ago. I opened them in Photoshop and they look so off and I had no clue on how to process them "correctly". Now I know where to start. THANKS !

    CK

    2

    Clarity for photographers

    It is great to be able to tap into the knowledge of a writer with such deapth. For photographers it clearly explains the power and use of one of Photoshop CS's most valuable features. If you haven't started exploring the capabilities of this awesome feature then this is how to do it with training wheels. Great stuff!!

    3

    same possible with Capture One?

    great article!

    I was wondering if something similar was possible with Capture One DSLR. It has the option to use custom profiles for different cameras, is it possible to create your own one with the Color Checker?

    thanks-

    4

    More info

    Since writing this piece, two things have become clearer to me-I pass them on in the hopes that they'll save some time.

    1.) In theory, any RGB should work but in practice it seems that it's much easier to do this exercise in ProPhoto RGB. The resulting calibration will work for all the supported output spaces, so you aren't locked into ProPhoto RGB by doing so. I suspect that the reason is that Camera Raw uses a space with the ProPhoto primaries and linear gamma for most of its processing.

    2.) It definitely helps to do the edits in the following order:

    Shadow Tint
    Green Sat
    Green Hue
    Blue Sat
    Blue Hue
    Red Sat
    Red Hue

    Digital cameras have a much stronger response to red than to either green or blue., Making the edits in this order helps bring the reds back into a reasonable range.

    5

    Very Useful Article

    That's the best raw article I've come across. Very articulate, accurate and helpful.

    6

    Have your camera ready

    Good information, but for those of us that have to experience, use as a step by step with your camera and .RAW images at hand.

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