Out of Gamut: You Can't Do This to High-Bit Files in Photoshop (or Can You?)

Files with more than 8-bits per channel are preferred by digital-imaging artists as edits to such files produce less image degradation. Common wisdom says Photoshop can't work with these "high-bit" files -- but Bruce Fraser has workarounds that yield great-looking images.
Written by Bruce Fraser on March 26, 2002

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Where's My Paintbrush?
Another lament I often hear is that you can't paint on high-bit files. The Paintbrush tool isn't available. Well, yes and no. Again, History comes to the rescue. One of my main reasons for painting on images is to make subtle alterations to color -- I often paint with a low opacity, with the blending set to Multiply, to change color slightly. Here's how to paint with any color on a high-bit file.

After making further corrections, this high-bit image is in better shape, but the stonework is a little too red (see figure 8).


Figure 8: In this version, the stone is too red.

I can fix it by painting in some yellow with a low (around 10%) opacity and blending set to multiply. To make it a little easier, I first created a mask for the stonework (using the sky channel as a starting point) and loaded it into the high-bit image, then I took a Snapshot, to make sure I could get back to that point.

The trick here is to use Curves to provide the History brush with a solid color. It's a simple two-step process, but it's a little scary because it appears to destroy the image. That's why I took the Snapshot.

First, I use Curves to turn the entire area white by dragging the black point of the curve all the way up to the top left corner (see figure 9).


Figure 9: Drag the black point to the upper left (top). This turns the area white (bottom).

Then, I adjust the individual channel curves to produce the shade I want (see figure 10).


Figure 10: Adjust the green and blue channels (top). This turns the area yellow.

Now, I go to the History palette, and set it to the state before I applied the curve that turned the area white. I set the History brush source to the curve that turned the area yellow (see figure 11).


Figure 11: The History palette with the brush source set to the curve that produced yellow.

I set the History brush opacity to 10%, and set the blending mode to Multiply, then I paint the yellow wash over the stonework. I use a large brush (Photoshop 7 will let me use a 2500-pixel brush instead of the current 999-pixel limit), and paint with a single stroke so that I don't have to worry about overlapping brush strokes or disappearing History states. The result is shown in Figure 12. In this case, it's fairly subtle, but you can use the same technique to paint with any color in as subtle or unsubtle a manner as you wish.


Figure 12: The yellow paint applied.
1

16 Bit Editing Article

Another exceptional article by Bruce Fraser. However, I find an alternative workflow preferable for me. I actually do a full set of edits on a separate 8 bit file of the image with adjustment layers and masks and retain it as a master 8 bit file for future use. Then, when I am satisfied with my edits, I transfer them to a copy of the original 16 bit scan using the techniques Bruce describes. That file is then converted to 8 bit, ressed up and sharpened for output on a large format Epson. I keep all three files: the original 16 bit scan, the edited and sharpened 8 bit version for output, and the 8 bit version with the adj. layers and masks.

2

Timely

Nice timing: I'd been looking at the high pass filter to pull out noise and dirt and wondering at methods for implementing the results

3

Bruce rocks!

From the moment I picked up "Real World Photoshop 5" I knew that these guys were good. After reading it cover to cover, I find myself still going back to it for reference.
This article just continues the trend. I have come to expect excellence from Bruce and he rarely disappoints; this article being no exception.
Often it's just the little things that you have missed or overlooked: like using the Command+Option keys together with M or L to bring in the last used curve or level settings. I would usually save the 8 bit adjustment settings and then load them into the curve or level dialog when in the high bit image. Another little time saver...
And of course, how many people have their own custom color space named after them.

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